Iquique & Arica


We wanted to hit Iquique and Arica because they were the last two big towns before leaving Chile. We were in need of a chain for one of the bikes and a set of spare tires. Leaving the Atacama, we doubled back through Calama, where we ran into Marcos and Esther. They are a Swiss couple that we met around a thousand miles ago in a gas station north of Santiago. They are traveling on two Suzuki DR650s that they bought in Santa Barbara. From there they traveled to Alaska and then backdown through Central and now South America. We road with them as far as the junction to Iquique. We would run into them again.
Iquique occupies a narrow coastal shelf that butts up against a steep escarpment. It is another of the ports that serve the north's mining enterprises. The drafts along the escarpment make it ideal for hang-gliding, and the sky is often filled with them.
Having had no luck finding parts, we decided to try Arica, which is on the border with Peru, and is a free trade zone.
Since it is more than 300 miles from Iquique to Arica without a gas station, we had to find a grocery store that had a few drums of gas. Karen holds the funnel, while the old man pours from a 5 liter wine bottle.
Approaching Arica, the landscape is similar to much of the coast in this part of the world. The high desert is cut by deep quebradas formed by rivers that flow for all or part of the year to the coast. The dense garuas fog caused by the Humboldt Currents helps provide enough moisture to support a short growing season. In Arica, however, we were no more succesful finding parts even in the zona franca. Anyway we were ready for a change, so we decide to push on to Putre, where many people like to acclimate to the altitude before continuing to the Altiplano.
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