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With a score or more
of Purépecha villages around the lake we had time to pick just
two. For our first we took a lancha
to Janitzio, an Island on Lake Pátzcuaro. At the muelle Karen immediately made
friends with this little guy, even bringing him a cup full of the tiny
goldfish-sized fish that are deep fried and sold in stands all around
the island.
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The statue of local hero Morelos
dominates the island and can be seen from the shore in Pátzcuaro
miles away. As you near the island, local fisherman (below) with their
butterfly nets show their technique, more as a display for the small
tips that they can get from tourists then for the actual catch they can
bring in.
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The
hike to the top of the island is worth the effort for the views of this
village that allows no motorized vehicles. This town is host to one of
the largest of the Dia de los Muertos celebrations that take place in
villages all around the lake.
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Around
the base of the statue children play in one of the fountains (left),
while the statue reveals the intricacy of its construction.
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Climbing
the circular ramp inside the body there are two views, the one above
from the shoulder when you leave the body and enter the arm, and
another limited view farther up from the wrist.
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The
other village we visited was Tzintzuntzan, a town known for its carved
furniture and emboidery work. We unfortunately could not find the
embroiderer "Teo" whose work we had seen in Morelia. We did, however,
enjoy a stroll through the grounds of this 16th century ex-convento San Francisco.
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One
of the things that amazes on entering this site is the size of the
gnarled old olive trees said to have been planted by Vasco de
Quiroga. This is also home to one of the areas most elaborate Day
of the Dead displays.
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| Much of the walls
that surround the site and form the foundation of
some of the buildings are from a nearby Tarascan site destroyed and
pillaged by the Spanish. |

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Although
we had missed Tzintzuntzan's main market day, its streetside market was
still packed with rows and rows of these strings of handmade Christmas
ornaments above and below made from straw interwoven with brightly colored
ribbons.
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