Arguably one of
the most spectacular of Mexico's "Silver Cities", central Zacatecas is
a daunting maze of hilly one way streets and callejons. In fact, on the
way in we had elected a hotel and as we passed the cathedral we could
see it from across a plaza slightly downhill on the next street over.
Twenty-five minutes later we had finally arrived after having traversed
miles of one way streets. Too often we would arrive at what appeared to
be a street on the map, that should of been heading in the direction
that we wanted to go, only to find that it was actually a broad
stairway. Once parked though, the town is easily navigated on foot. The
easiest way to get an overview of the town's historic center is to ride
the teleferico (below) to Cerro de la Bufa that overlooks the town.
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Our hotel was
just below the cathedral at the center of this telephoto shot above. As
in most colonial towns in Mexico, the church so dominates the city's
skyline that it becomes a ready reference point from just about
anywhere in town.
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At left above
is the detailed baroque facade of the town's main cathedral. At right
is
an example of one of the many "streets" in the historic center that
turn out not to be streets at all. In a vehicle, a destination a block
away can take miles of driving.
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Just south of
the historic center the beautiful Parque Enrique Estrada is flanked on
the east by the ancient aqueduct above, and on the west by this other
stately church, its soaring spire mirrored by the swaying cypresses
(below).
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Zacatecas is as
attractive at night as it is by day. With the main cathedral in the
background, the Teatro Calderón is on the left. The street
pictured was host earlier in the day to an annual carrera of vintage
cars (below) that pass
through Zacatecas enroute to Juarez.
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Perhaps one of
Zacatecas' most unique attractions is the museum housed in the
spectacular former convent pictured above and below. Its maze of rooms
and courtyards houses more than three thousand masks, and is said to
have another seven thousand still in storage.
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Masks here are
made of all manner of materials, and in all manner of themes. A
common, yet simple and elegant design is the mask at right that has
extremely life-like eyes that open and close by pulling a string.
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Another
common style are those that depict the Spaniard conquistadors. Many of the masks
are used in "dramas" played out on certain feast days.
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Although we saw
entire walls covered with masks on the same theme, we were unable to
find any two that were exactly the same.
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These
more demonic styles above, are masks that are used in ritual dance.
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In addition to
masks, the museum also has one large hall full of elaborate dioramas
consisting of hand made marionettes.
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