The only places where
the barren landscape of the desert is broken are in the few deep narrow
cuts made by a handful of rivers and their tributaries. Here small indigenous
groups practice the same form of collective labor that was practiced for
centuries before the Inca Empire. They built extensive terraces and elaborate
systems of irrigation to maximize the yield of these precious fertile places.
Maintenance of the irrigation canals was a communal responsibility. These
practices are still in use today. In the years before the flouresence of
the Inca it became increasingly important to develop defensive strategies
to protect these scarce and precious resources. The most common of these
strategies was the Pukará. The Pukará was a defensive fortress
built on the high cliffs overlooking these narrow valleys.
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We road up one of these
narrow cuts along the Rio Loa near Calama to visit a Pukará at Lasana
near Calama. The Rio Loa is one of the few rivers in this area that flows
all the way to the sea.
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We weren't able to see
this Pukará until we were nearly on top of it because of the way
it blends into the surrounding cliffs.
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In addition to living
spaces and defensive fortifications, the pukará also served as warehouses
for the community's harvested crops.
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Here below the pukará
at Lasana, Aymara farmers use the same techniques and grow the same crops
that they have for centuries. The fertile valley floor is barely 100 meters
wide.
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